Portuguese Delicacies:
Restaurants & Bars & Foods To Try
We’re major foodies and have had the privilege of experiencing some amazing food around the world. That said, Portugal has some of the most consistently delicious cuisine we’ve come across. From stumbling into a family-owned cantinho just before they closed for sesta to sampling the stuffed, fried goodies at every Portuguese bakery we could find, I can’t remember really ever being disappointed by a Portuguese meal.
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Lisbon
O Cantinho do Bem Estar
UPDATE: Sadly, this restaurant didn’t survive the pandemic. We were so sad to discover that it has permanently closed. Now we’re on a mission to find a suitable replacement whole fish spot…and I think we may have found one. 😊
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Located in the popular Bairro Alto district, we literally found this place with our noses. After exploring the area all morning—and forgetting that the city shuts down for siesta—we struggled to find a restaurant that was still serving lunch. As we wandered through the cobblestone alleys, up and down the hills, suddenly there was a heavenly scent wafting our way. We followed that smell to a small doorway that looked more like a house than a restaurant. We were the last table seated for lunch and the meal that followed has been imprinted on our brains ever since.
Having never been “whole fish” people, you can imagine how charming our waiter must have been to convince us to order just that. Not only was it delicious—flanked by roasted potatoes, salad, strawberries (?!), and floating atop a mouthwatering lemon vinaigrette—but the chef and owner himself came over to remove the backbone midway through the meal and then forced us to eat chocolate cake!
On our next trip to Lisbon, we were on a mission to find this restaurant again, even though we had neglected to take a keepsake to remember the name or address. All we remembered was the area. So after two hours of wandering the same cobblestone alleys and peeking into doors trying to match the china from our pictures, you can imagine how ecstatic we were when, about five minutes from giving up, we finally found it! After eating the exact same (still scrumptious) meal we took a card and vowed to never forget where this was again.
Bairro Alto, Rua do Norte, 46, Lisbon
Our Whole Fish
Owner Tiago Parente
Cervejaria Ramiro
One of the first things we do when we’re planning a trip somewhere is check to see if Anthony Bourdain (RIP) ever visited on his show No Reservations. In his Lisbon episode, he visits this seafood restaurant known by the locals as one of the best in town. It’s now very popular with tourists, so go early to avoid a long wait, but it’s still the best.
We ordered all the same things as Bourdain, and the waiter said to us as Anthony’s did to him, “Good luck!” The stars of the menu are simply prepared seafood dishes. Unfussy. Not unmessy. Don’t forget to suck the heads!
We’ve eaten a lot of seafood in our lives, but one of the standouts of the night, and something we’d never had the pleasure of trying, was the Carabineiros—large deep-sea cardinal prawns. Deep red in color, sweet and buttery in flavor, they are the best shrimp in the sea.
Last, but not least, in Lisbon seafood dinners are traditionally followed by a steak and mustard sandwich “dessert” called a prego. Don’t. Skip. Dessert. It’ll help soak up all the wine and prepare you for a late night out.
Avenida Almirante Reis 1-H, Lisbon
Prego Dessert Steak Sandwich
Carabineiros
A Gruta de Camões
I think of this as an old man spot. On our last night in Lisbon, we were looking for an easy, quick meal and stumbled upon this little treat. I imagine little, old Portuguese men sitting, reading the paper, and drinking espresso. I don’t remember every detail of this meal. But I do remember some sort of pork steak smothered in a cheese sauce and served with fries. It was a simple meal, and it definitely made me feel like a local!
Located in the Chiado neighborhood, it’s a great option for a quick, cheap, local meal.
Mercado de Campo de Ourique
At the end of the famous Tram 28 is a food market that offers a little something for everyone. Akin to La Boqueria in Barcelona, it offers local favorites and hipster versions of Portuguese specialties. Each person can choose what they want to eat and drink and sit together at the communal tables to enjoy. It’s a great place to grab a bite to eat after a little sightseeing on Tram 28.
BONUS: across the street from the market is an international foods store called Glood that carries tons of American products. We found some Kraft Mac & Cheese to feed the little one a little taste of home after traveling for 3 weeks.
Photo Credit: endless autumn – Flickr
Must Try Foods
Pastéis de Nata
A single one of these irresistible egg custard tarts is called a pastel de nata, but one will never be enough. Maybe one per day, or hour. You’ll be addicted to these pastéis and seek them out all around the world. Dusted with a generous amount of cinnamon and powdered sugar and served with um café, an espresso.
Octopus
If you’ve ever eaten octopus, there’s a pretty high chance it came from Portugal. Just about every menu you come across will have some version available. And, I can say, hands down, the best octopus dish I have ever eaten was in Porto. I just wish I could remember the restaurant!
Savory Snacks
Every Portuguese bakery you come across will have a stunning array of savory pastries. My personal favorites are the rissóis, kind of like deep-fried dumplings filled with beef, port, sausage, or fish. Other favorites are the croquetes, coxinhas, empadinhas, bifanas, and the all-too-delicious prego.
